Visualizzazione post con etichetta virginia postrel substance of style. Mostra tutti i post
Visualizzazione post con etichetta virginia postrel substance of style. Mostra tutti i post

sabato 4 febbraio 2023

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Perché le persone comprano cose di cui "non hanno bisogno"?


Sarai felice di sapere che Marx, Freud e Veblen non hanno il monopolio delle spiegazioni. Gli scienziati sociali, inclusi alcuni economisti, offrono un'alternativa al puro inganno e all'illusione. Quasi tutti gli studiosi che scrivono sulla cultura del consumo in un modo che ne apprezza il rapporto con la libertà sono... femministe.


Le aziende che volevano vendere cose alle donne dovevano prestare attenzione a ciò che volevano. Ciò significava beni e servizi, ma significava anche gli ambienti, le istituzioni e i comportamenti che circondavano quelle cose. La società dei consumi ha reso le donne pubbliche e indipendenti in modi nuovi e potenti, non attraverso la politica, almeno non all'inizio, ma attraverso il mercato.


Esempio. La possibilità di scegliere i propri vestiti è una delle prime libertà che desideriamo da bambini, specie le femminucce. È una delle libertà che ci stanno più a cuore e che spesso diamo per scontata. La libertà di scegliere i nostri vestiti non è resa possibile solo dall'assenza di un codice di abbigliamento obbligatorio per legge. Richiede prima doveva avvenire una rivoluzione economica per permetterci di acquistare vestiti di cui "non abbiamo bisogno".

giovedì 24 maggio 2018

TECNOBELLEZZA

TECNOBELLEZZA
Una preoccupazione diffusa: se tutti potessimo migliorare il nostro aspetto con interventi genetici finiremmo per assomigliarci, se per esempio fosse possibile cambiare il colore dei nostri occhi finiremmo tutti per avere gli occhi azzurri. Il mondo diventerebbe un posto strano e omogeneo. Tuttavia, l’abbondanza è quasi sempre preludio alla varietà: noi vogliamo essere belli ma anche speciali. Il mondo della moda, d'altronde, è anche un mondo molto colorato e diversificato, per alcuni addirittura caotico.
Whether it's sleek leather pants, a shiny new Apple computer, or a designer toaster, we make important decisions as consumers every day based on our sensory…
AMAZON.COM

LE QUALITA’ DEL FUTURO

LE QUALITA’ DEL FUTURO
Nella novella “Il bello e il sublime”, Bruce Sterling immagina un mondo in cui l’intelligenza artificiale si è affermata un po’ ovunque ed è ormai accessibile in modo economico. Il pensiero razionale non è più considerato una facoltà umana apprezzabile, le persone particolarmente intelligenti sono trattati come robottini vintage di terza categoria. In un mondo del genere le attitudini artistiche, creative, nonché la capacità di conferire emozioni estetiche e sensoriali sono le qualità che vanno di più.
Whether it's sleek leather pants, a shiny new Apple computer, or a designer toaster, we make important decisions as consumers every day based on our sensory…
AMAZON.COM

EDONISMO E SPIRITUALISMO

EDONISMO E SPIRITUALISMO
La chirurgia plastica è esecrata in quanto segno di superficialità, chi cura troppo il proprio aspetto fisico, evidentemente, trascura la sua anima. L’edonismo spiazzerebbe lo spiritualismo. Tuttavia, a questo spiazzamento c’è un antidoto: i prezzi bassi. Se i prezzi della chirurgia plastica crollassero potremmo fare l’uno e l’altro. Quanto più l’investimento su un aspetto diventa meno oneroso, tanto più possiamo conservare anche quello quell'altro.
Whether it's sleek leather pants, a shiny new Apple computer, or a designer toaster, we make important decisions as consumers every day based on our sensory…
AMAZON.COM

Six SMART AND PRETTY HL

Six SMART AND PRETTY
Note:6@@@@@@@@@@@@@FALSI TRADE OFF

Yellow highlight | Location: 2,778
The aesthetic imperative is here to stay.
Note:TESI

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Every start-up, product, or public space calls for an aesthetic touch.
Note:DATO DI FATTO

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demands new forms of attention and offers new sources of pleasure
Note:COMPETIZIONE X L ATTENZIONE

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Aesthetic proliferation
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more choices, opportunities,
Note:NE SEGUE

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We expect look and feel to express,
Note:ESPRESSIONE OVUNQUE

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establish, the identity
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Function alone does not suffice.
Note:OGGI

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Hubbard Street Grill closed
Note:UN CASO DI FALLIMENTO

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David Schy blamed competition
Note:IL COLPEVOLE...GRANDI CATENE

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“he didn’t spiff up the loft warehouse space that housed
Note:MA X IL WSJ COLPA DELL ARREDAMENTO NN RINNOVATO

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He didn’t even buy new tables
Note:Cccccccc

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Schy gave Hubbard Street Grill no aesthetic identity.
Note:DI FATTO

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expanding the menu but did nothing to improve the restaurant’s atmosphere.
Note:DI FATTO...

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real business of dining was the food.
Note:IERI...OGGI NN PIÙ

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$3 million [decorating budget] with lousy food
Note:IL GIUDIZIO SPREZZANTE SULLA CONCORRENZA

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the quality of restaurant food has improved greatly, making look and feel the deciding factors
Note:IN REALTÀ...

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between lousy food and good food but between good food in an appealing environment and better food in an unappealing one.
Note:LA SCELTA FALSA E LA VERA SCELTA

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“The décor stinks, it’s too loud, you can’t hear. But the food is good.”
Note:NESSUNO GIUDICA COSÌ

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education writer Joanne Jacobs complains that schools teach children PowerPoint rather than critical writing
Note:ALTRO FALSO TRADE OFF

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“Dumb, But Pretty.”
Note:L DEA DI JACOBS

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Solving the problem wasn’t enough.
Note:OGGI

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a good-looking cover matters only on the margin.
Note:PROBLEMI AL MARGINE

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not “dumb but pretty” but “smart and pretty.”
Note:ET ET

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no inherently worse than rewarding history students for well-wrought prose,
Note | Location: 2,827
NON È UNA NOVITÀ

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what schools are really giving up to spend more time on aesthetics.
Note:LA DOMANDA

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putting together “creative” projects like skits and posters.
Note:GLI STUDENTI PRIMA DI PIWERPOINT...STESSI ISTINTI

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plenty of marginally productive hours—some of them devoted to repetitive or insignificant academic instruction—that could be more valuably used to develop aesthetic skills.
Note:LO SPAZIO X IL BELLO PUÒ ESSERE EFFICIENTE

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The “smart and pretty” standard reflects what’s happening in the nonacademic world,
Note:DIFFERENZA AL MARGINE

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they have to choose between brains and beauty,
Note:SCELTA FACILE

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avoid such false dichotomies.
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trade-offs we make aren’t all-or-nothing choices. They’re decisions on the margin:
Note:MARGINE

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Piro’s humanities class offers a better model for using aesthetics
Note:ESPERIMENTO

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movies combine aesthetics with communication,
Note:FILMARE ANZICHÈ SCRIVERE

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serious thought about how most effectively to convey ideas
Note:LA SOSTANZA DELLA SUPERFICIE

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understanding of utopian literature and the rhetorical skill
Note:SOSTANZA E COMUNICATIVA

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Jacobs is voicing the frustrations of the intellectually adept student confronted with academic demands she can’t easily meet.
Note:LA FRUSTRAZIONE DELL INTELLO TRADIZ

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What does graphic design have to do with math?
Note:SI CHIEDONO

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My project was stupid because my aesthetic skills weren’t good enough to support substantive thoughts.
Note:RICORDO XSONALE

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teacher viewed artwork as intuitive and innate, the opposite of intellect or skill.
Note:VISIONE NAIVE

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aesthetics enhances communication.
Note:UL FATTO TRASCURATO

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good schools will cultivate aesthetic skills,
Note:INCITAMENTO

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How well students deploy these skills for rhetorical effect is still a test of intellectual mastery,
Note:MIX INESTRICABILE

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Verbal aptitude faces competition from new media,
Note:COMPETIZIONE TRA TALENTI

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An insightful student who writes poorly may be able to produce an effective multimedia presentation,
Note:I SALVATI

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they nonetheless help us to perceive and understand the world.
Note:DOTI ESTETICHE TALENTI REALI

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If a science teacher accepts a diagram that contradicts Galileo, the teacher’s ignorance, not the graphic design, is to blame.
Note:BERSAGLI SBAGLIATI

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recorded his lunar observations in watercolors.
Note:GALILEO STESSO

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drawing and painting were both common scientific tools
Note | Location: 2,886
PRIMA DEL ROMANTICISMO

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David Hume
Note:PARLANDO DEL LUSSO DIFENDE L ESTETICA

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     Luxury
Note:NON DI SOLO PANE

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great refinement in the gratification of the senses;
Note:SENSO

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These indulgences are only vices when they are pursued at the expense of some virtue,
Note:TRADE OFF

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Aesthetics is prerational or nonrational, not irrational or antirational.
Note:RAZIONALISMI

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Behind this aesthetic trend, as behind so many others, are falling prices.
Note:COSA C È DIETRO

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Consider women’s shoes.
Note:UN ESEMPIO

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Embroidered and beaded shoes
Note:UN TEMPO COSTOSISSIME X IL LAVORO ARTIGIANALE

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in the late 1990s, automation drove down the cost of these adornments
Note:MA...AUTOMAZIONE E CINA

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Did fancy shoemakers suddenly garner enormous profits?
Note:CHI CI GUADAGNA?…IL CONSUMATORE

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“profit margins are no greater on these shoes than on unadorned Mary Janes.”
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increasing total sales.
Note:CIÓ A CUI SI PUNTA

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shoe industry productivity hasn’t increased much, if at all. But the standard of living
Note:PRODUTTIVITÀ E STANDARD...LA MISURA DELLA PRODUTTIVITÁ È OBSOLETA

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consumers can get more aesthetic value for the same price.
Note:DECISIVO

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more pleasing without becoming more profitable.
Note:IL MONDO

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Much of the value created through aesthetics doesn’t make it into the economic data
Note:NO PIL

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Intangible goods like aesthetics are inherently difficult to measure
Note:MISURA

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value isn’t reflected in higher prices.
Note:IL BELLO

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improvements like computer memory or car features,
Note:TENTATIVI VANI DI AGGIUSTARE

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Adjusted for inflation, the price of a movie ticket in 2001 was lower than in 1990 and much lower than its peak in 1971, yet sound systems and special effects are substantially improved.
Note:ESEMPIO CINEMA

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The benefits of rising technical standards go to ticket buyers,
Note:TRADOTTO

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quality goes up while price stays the same,
Note | Location: 2,936
FENOMENO

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quality improvements without price increases usually don’t affect economic statistics,
Note:CPI BIAS

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if aesthetic quality is accelerating,
Note:DISTORSIONE NEI DATI....

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intangible advantages such as variety,
Note:ALTRI PROBL DEL MISURATORE

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quality increases everywhere
Note:OGGI

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“productivity paradox”
Note:NOME

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overestimating inflation and understating growth.
Note:L ERRORE

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fighting inflation that doesn’t exist
Note:ERRORE INDOTRO NELKE POLITICHE

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spending programs, by contrast, tend to treat the data as perfect, automatically ratcheting up
Note:ERRORE CONSEG AL CPI BIAS

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data’s psychological effect. Incomes look stagnant even while living standards are rising.
Note:ANCORA PIÙ GRAVE

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accustomed to higher aesthetic standards,
Note:DIMENTICHIAMO TUTTO

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we believe pessimists who say progress has effectively ended.
Note:PESSIMISMO

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The more we invest in aesthetics,
Note:IL PAESE NN È APPREZZATO NELLE STATISTICHE

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one reason such common communications tools seem frivolous to old-fashioned managers.
Note:IPOTESI SUL PP

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This is true not just for places and things but for personal appearance.
Note:LA BELKEZZA DEI CORPI

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dermatologist visits, gym workouts, or hair care.
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“The emphasis now on grooming for women in public life is just so intense,”
Note:OGGI CI TENIAMO DI PIÙ

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but they reflect what people value and what we can now achieve.
Note:UN VALORE VERO

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future would have no jobs for anyone but computer programmers
Note:I PESSIMISTI ANNI 90

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Pat Buchanan on Crossfire,
Note:UN PROTAGONISTA DA DESTRA

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responded Jeremy Rifkin, author of The End of Work.
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The End of Work.
Note:PESSIMISTI DA SINISTRA

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These pessimists didn’t count on the aesthetic imperative.
Note | Location: 2,973
MA

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we increasingly contract out our aesthetic puzzles.
Note:SETTORE IN CRESCITA

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Turning once-amateur activities into professional
Note:NUOVI LAVORI

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Sewing and basic cabinetry were once tasks done inside the family.
Note:ARREDI CASALINGHI...DEMANDATI

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buy our clothes and tables from commercial experts
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from hairdressing to landscaping,
Note:NUOVI LAVORI

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aesthetic economy is in no way limited to “very elite,
Note:FINALMENTE

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paying people to shop for you, walk your dog, clean your house, cook for you, color your hair, nails, face, toes, wax you, massage you, exercise you, tan you.
Note:UN TEMPO RISERVATO ALLE ELITES

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sixteen or seventeen other people to help me
Note:AIUTANTI

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Instead of spending precious weekends planting grass
Note:AFFITTA UN GIARDINIERE

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looking for a special outfit wishes she could hire someone with impeccable fashion sense
Note:METTERSI IN GHINGHERI

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All those room-makeover TV shows
Note:TRASFORMARE LA CASA

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interior designers
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don’t work just for rich people.
Note:X TUTTI

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assumptions we’ve inherited from the romantics, who opposed art to technology and feeling to rationality;
Note:TUTTO ROVESCIATO

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ornament as crime and commerce as corruption;
Note:VECCHI VIZI

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Designers have long lived in fear that people will think they’re frivolous,
Note:IL TERRORE

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Good design is a renaissance attitude that combines technology, cognitive science, human need, and beauty
Note:COS È IL DESIGN

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“interior design is more than decorating.” It’s “about making people feel comfortable and perform properly in their space.”
Note:A TUO AGIO

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Design provides pleasure and meaning
Note:SIGNIFICATO

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making things beautiful can also make them work better.
Note:MESSAGGIO DELLE NEIROSCOENZE

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usability guru Donald Norman
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“Attractive things work better.
Note:SLOGAN

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color computer displays
Note:UN ESEMPIO

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“We’re turning out too many hairdressers and cosmetologists, and not enough skilled factory workers”
Note:UNA NENIA OBSOLETA

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asking which they’d choose: a machine shop job with high pay and job security or hairdressing with lower pay and more risk.
Note:LA DOMANDA DI RI CHARD FLORIDA

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most people chose the hair salon,
Note | Location: 3,050
RISP

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flexibility, freedom from supervision, stimulation, creativity, and the immediate satisfaction of their customers’ pleasure.
Note:RAGIONI

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tattooing needle, DJ turntable
Note:ANALOGIE

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those jobs will enjoy increasing prestige.
Note:PREVISIONI

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Their talents can be the essential complements to the skills of others.
Note:I CREATIVI

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How do artists, engineers, and business executives communicate
Note:INTERROGATIVO

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Can we recapture the wisdom of the Renaissance,
Note:NEO RINASCIM

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why can’t it deliver personal beauty at a lower cost in time and money? There should be pills for it!
Note:APOELLO ALLA TECNOLOGIA...LA PILLOLA

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personal appearance,
Note:L ESTETICA PIÙ IMPORTANTE

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We are not just visual, tactile creatures; we are visible, touchable
Note:CHI SOAMO

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Our bodies are us.
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Moss had experimental surgery to change her looks.
Note:UN CASO DI VOLTO DEFORME

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“Just cut away everything that’s not me.”
Note:IL SUO PENSIERO FISSO

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Advancing biomedical technologies give us control over biological conditions
Note:OGGI È POSSIBILE

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Moss’s old face was unusual and ugly, the unwanted product of genetic bad luck,
Note:NN UNA MALATTIA

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We unnecessarily torture the language when we insist that every undesirable biological condition must be called a disease
Note:CI PIACE PENSARE ALLA MALATTIA

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more responsibility we face not only for who we are and how we act but for how we appear.
Note:RESPONSABILITÀ

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But suppose cosmetic surgery, or a substitute technology, really were “hassle-free”
Note:ESPERIMENTO MENTALE

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even people who care only a little about their looks will do it,
Note:LOGICO ATTENDERSI

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Good teeth and clear skin
Note:ES

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those falling costs keep look and feel from crowding out all other values. We may be able to have more of everything,
Note:BASSI COSTI...ZERO SPIAZZAMENTO

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The age of look and feel is a product of those shifting relative costs.
Note:CHE SIA CHIARO

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Just as athletes and intellectuals lead unbalanced lives by the standards of those with other priorities, so some people find enormous meaning and pleasure in personal beauty.
Note:CIÒ NN TOGLIE CHE

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make a disturbing cultural model.
Note:CHI PENSA SOLO ALL APPARENZA

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they seem boring and superficial.
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They’re just a subculture, a specialized niche
Note:NN PREOCCUP

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Everybody will use them, and we’ll all wind up looking the same.
Note | Location: 3,153
PREOCCUP SULLA TECNOBELLEZZA

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If changing eye color becomes too easy, people will alter what nature decrees.
Note:TUTTI CON GLI OCCHI AZZURRI

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weird and homogeneous.
Note:IL MONDO

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alter a person’s genetic makeup before birth,
Note:UN ESEMPIO

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cosmetic gene therapy will “spread like wildfire”
Note:PREVISIONE

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we will alter our outer selves to match our inner selves.
Note:COINCIDENZA

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it’s foolish to dread a uniformly blue-eyed world.
Note:NON CERTO UN DESTINO

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Plenitude and self-expression are as central to the age of look
Note:DIVERSITÀ E ABBONDANZA

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We want to look good but also to look special,
Note:SPECIALI

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against a single aesthetic standard—whether
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When aesthetic choices are left to individuals, we wind up with variety,
Note:TESI

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Every cultural and economic change produces the same fundamental fear: that in the unknown future, there will be no place for people like me,
Note:LA PAURA DEOL FUTURO

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“The Beautiful and the Sublime,” Bruce Sterling
Note:UN RACCONTO

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rational thought is no longer considered a particularly human activity.
Note:IN UN MONDO DOVE IA È DIFFUSA ECONOMICA E DISPONIBILE

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Art, emotion, and grand gestures are in.
Note:Cccccccc

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indefinable elements that separate humanity from the shallow logic
Note:Cccccccccc

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The aesthetic imperative requires integrating art and science, emotion and cognition,
Note:NN SARÀ N MONDO SUPERFICIALE

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The age of look and feel runs on specialization.
Note:ANCHE LORO

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The innovations that today seem exciting, disturbing, or both will eventually become the backgrounds of our lives.
Note:CE NE ACCORGIAMO SOLO QUANDO MANCANO

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Without a life to be lived, look and feel have no purpose or meaning.
Note:ARTE E VITA

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They don’t matter apart from our subjective experience
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     What really endures are artifacts, effigies, things that speak about a time, place or civilization.
Note:MA D ALTRA PARTE

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Objects outlive us,
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We have the pots, jewelry, and wall decorations of our ancient ancestors, and a few of their stories.
Note:UN REPEETO CHE DICE MOLTO

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“Every object in one’s life,”
UNA VITA